Refrigerator Not Cooling: Causes and Checks

What usually causes it

• Dirty condenser coil. Dust and pet hair on the coil under or behind the unit keep it from shedding heat. The compressor runs longer and longer and still cannot keep up.
• Condenser fan motor. On most bottom-mount and side-by-side models a small fan near the compressor pulls air across the coil. If it stalls, the compressor overheats and cycles off on its overload.
• Evaporator fan motor. The fan behind the freezer back panel pushes cold air into both compartments. A failed fan or one blocked by ice leaves the freezer cold-ish and the fridge warm.
• Defrost system. A failed defrost heater, defrost thermostat (bimetal), thermal fuse or control board lets frost build on the evaporator until air can no longer pass through it.
• Air damper. Many fridges use a motorized or manual damper to meter cold air into the fresh-food side. A damper stuck closed gives a cold freezer and a warm fridge.
• Start relay, overload or compressor. A clicking sound every few minutes with no hum usually points to the start relay or overload, sometimes to the compressor itself.
• Sealed system. A refrigerant leak or restriction makes the unit run nonstop with a weak, partly frosted evaporator. This needs a technician certified to handle refrigerant.

Refrigerator not cooling

The fresh-food side is above 40°F while the freezer may still feel cold. The usual causes are a dirty condenser coil, a stalled fan, or a defrost problem that has iced over the evaporator.

Check first: Make sure the vents inside are not blocked by food, listen for the fans, and vacuum the coil at the bottom or back if you can reach it safely.

Freezer section running warm

When the freezer side is soft or frosty but not cold, the evaporator is often iced over from a defrost failure, or the evaporator fan has stopped.

Check first: Check for frost on the back wall of the freezer and listen for the fan when the door switch is pressed.

Refrigerator running constantly

Some long run time is normal in August, but a fridge that never cycles off usually has a dirty coil, a weak door seal, or low cooling capacity.

Check first: Clean the coil, check that the doors close on their own, and keep the unit out of direct sun or a hot garage if you can.

Safe checks you can do

• Put an appliance thermometer in a glass of water in the middle shelf and read it after several hours. Aim for 37°F in the fridge and 0°F in the freezer.
• Make sure food is not blocking the vents on the back wall of the freezer or the air outlet into the fresh-food section.
• Unplug the unit and vacuum the condenser coil with a brush attachment. On many models the coil is behind the kick plate at the bottom front.
• With the freezer door open, press the door switch and listen. You should hear the evaporator fan. Silence suggests a fan or control problem.
• Look at the freezer back panel. A thick, even layer of frost or ice there points to a defrost problem.
• Check that the unit has room to breathe: a few inches behind it and nothing stacked on top over the vents.

Parts that fail most often

• Defrost heaters and defrost thermostats are among the most common failed parts on frost-free refrigerators.
• Evaporator and condenser fan motors wear out and get noisy before they quit.
• Electronic control boards on newer models can fail after power surges.
• Start relays on older compressors fail more often than the compressors themselves.

How your home affects it

In older homes

Older homes in the Houston area often have smaller kitchens and laundry closets built for smaller appliances, older wiring, and shut-off valves that have not been turned in years. Check that the refrigerator has its own outlet and a few inches of space behind it for the coil to breathe.

In new construction

Newer homes in the Houston area usually come with builder-grade appliances, and many early problems are installation issues rather than failed parts. Kinked water lines behind the fridge and units pushed too tight against the wall are common finds.

In apartments and condos

In apartments, condos and townhomes around the Houston area, space is tight and the building often has its own rules for access, parking and shut-off valves. Refrigerators in tight alcoves run hotter and longer; clearance matters.

In garages

Plenty of homes in the Houston area keep a second fridge, a freezer or the laundry in the garage, where summer heat regularly passes 100°F. Check the model plate for its rated temperature range; many refrigerators are not built for a hot Houston garage.

During storm season

Storm season around the Houston area brings power outages, surges and sometimes flooding, and appliances often show problems right after the lights come back on. After an outage, keep the doors shut and use a thermometer to decide about food. If the unit does not cool within a few hours of power returning, call us.

When to call for repair

• The fresh-food section stays above 40°F for more than a few hours.
• You find heavy frost on the back panel of the freezer, or the unit clicks on and off without starting.
• The coil is clean and the fans run, but temperatures keep creeping up.

Never puncture refrigerant lines or chip ice off the coil with a knife. Keep a thermometer in the fresh-food section; food safety follows the thermometer, not how cold the shelf feels.

Need help? We do refrigerator repair across Harris, Fort Bend and Montgomery counties. Call (832) 345-9300, Monday to Friday, 9 AM to 6 PM. Every repair comes with a 1-year warranty on labor.

Common questions